It has been 30 years now that I’ve sailed the Chesapeake Bay, East Coast U.S.A. and the Caribbean Islands and I’ve been fortunate to have owned a number sailing vessels, currently two Beneteau sail boats.

I’m often asked by my students what to look for when making an investment in a sailing vessel. I often share the following seven tips and hope that you too may find some value in them.

1. First carefully examine where you expect to use your boat, long term. Will it be on the Ocean, trans-Ocean, near the shore, in a Bay, on the Caribbean or all of the above. If you plan to sail Ocean or trans-Ocean then be sure that the construction is class “A” or rated for extended off shore passage making.
2. Beware of the buying philosophy “I’ll buy a smaller boat now and get a bigger one later.” If you’re buying new you will suffer two large depreciations. If buying used, the money you put into the first boat to bring it up to your own personal standards and needs will go a long way to paying a down payment or many monthly payments on the second boat. You will be upgrading the second boat anyway. Buy now what you expect to own for 5-10 years.
3. Take into account the area where you will be sailing and who you will be sailing with. Decide on the type of berths that will be suitable for you, your family and your guests. For example, aft doubles aligned with the axis of the boat or an aft double that runs across the boat port to starboard. Although the latter tends to be larger and more comfortable in the slip it is definitely not a sea going berth. How easily does the main salon table convert into a berth and is it sturdy enough to do so repeatedly? In a pinch or in good weather can any one sleep in the cockpit?
4. What is your likely cruising range? If just 2-4 days then water and diesel tankage can be respectively 20 and 80 gallons or less. If it is 5-10 days then a minimum would be 50 and 160. If you buy a boat with say 100 gallons diesel and 2-300 gallons water then the designer will have given up berth space to accommodate the tankage. Depending on the size of the boat the left over space may not be well utilized until you reach say a 50 ft. long boat. Look for living and storage space that is well utilized. Odd placement of the main salon settees, chart table and galley may indicate poor utilization of space and hence you may be paying good money for little advantage.
5. Boats that are heavy displacement, say 28,000 lbs for say a 42 ft. boat rather than say 17,800 lbs for a medium displacement, 42 footer will need 10- 15 knots of wind to develop any kind of “feel” at the helm and in many locations such as the Chesapeake Bay with winds typically 5 – 15 knots in the summer you may have purchased a very nice well equipped power boat. However these heavy displacement cruisers are excellent for extended off shore passage making and live-aboard sailing either in the Caribbean or the U.S.A..
6. One of the best tips, If you are a first time sailor and want to buy a boat in the 25 to 50 ft range, is to sail with someone who knows how to sail, take a sailing class and then charter a boat in the length range that interests you. Picking a boat with out sailing a boat of similar size is risky although many have done it successfully. Keep in mind that many of the modern designs of the last 10 years are designed specifically for two people to sail easily whether in the Bay or in the ocean.
7. Lastly, do insist on a survey. If the boat has any of the defects listed below find out the cost to correct them if you are expecting the boat to pass the insurer’s surveyor. Insurers have their own requirements. Your insurance agent and the surveyor should be working hand in hand. This is where a purchaser of a used watercraft can suddenly be faced with unexpected costs. Costly defects include but are not limited to:
   1. Soft or cracked gellcoat on the deck.
   2. Deck leaks around windows, masts, caprail, traveller or through deck fittings.
   3. If the engine that has stood idle for more than 6 months diesel may be contaminated with bacterial sludges, have pistons seized, injectors blocked and electrical system contaminated with water. Insist on at least a 2-4 hour run in the water at cruising speed. Check for undue vibration, overheating, proper charging of the batteries and that the engine can come up to its cruising rpm.
   4. If the boat is more than 6 years old have the surveyor check that the engine mounts are OK and particularly that all mounting bolts are intact. Two can be broken without any obvious signs or effects. When #3 breaks the engine is loose! This is a common problem on older boats that encounter rough waters while under power and can easily be overlooked by the surveyor.
   5. Obviously you will need an out of the water inspection. Check for blisters, gellcoat cracks, soft spots, shaft play in the cutlass bearing and loose rudder bearings, hull integrity around through hulls and the gap between the hull and the top of the keel which should be filled with sealant else corrosion of the keel may have caused the keel to separate from the hull.
   6. Rigging should be checked by a rigger and all running rigging must be overhauled end-to-end to detect hidden chafe.

Hope you find these tips helpful. Best wishes to you on your investment, maybe I’ll see you on the Chesapeake Bay or near the British Virgin Islands sometime, I’ll either be sailing on Majjik II or Majjik III.

About The Author
Keith Binnersley is owner of Upper Bay Sailing School, Inc. http://www.upperbaysailing.com. He is a Certified American Sailing Association Sailing Instructor and holds a 50 ton Masters USCG License. You can contact him at majjikll@msn.com.

- When moored or anchored, use your sun tent and stay under it most of the time. Our friend, the Sun, sometimes can be dangerous, especially during summertime.

- Be cautious on board and if possible, always wear a pair of soft boat shoes. This way you will protect your feet and the deck surface. When sailing, avoid walking on deck without particular reason and in rough weather, remember to use your life belt.

- If you have children on board, let them sit outside but always in the cockpit wearing a life vest.

- Before operating the electric anchor winch, start the motor and run it at aprox 1.200 to 1.500 rpm in neutral. This is necessary in order not to exhaust the service battery, as the consumption of the winch is extremely high. Our recommendation is to low your anchor manually and collect it using the remote control. Whenever using the anchor winch (dropping or collecting your anchor) be very careful with your fingers. An electric anchor winch is a great facility but also extremely danger with careless use.

- Remember to use the electric refrigerator only with the motor running.

- Many yachts are equipped with a switch with which you may connect the two batteries, to have more power to start your motor. You can keep them connected, as long as your motor is running. When you stop the motor, remember to disconnect them. This will protect you, to be without electric power in case that you will forget, for example, the electric refrigerator running.

- When you moor in a port, always have a fender between your yacht and the quay, so even if your anchor for any reason is unable to keep you in position, the yacht will not touch the quay. Take care of the swell that big ferries cause and avoid mooring the yacht close to the place these boats anchor.

- Before you put your engine in gear, have a look around the yacht for floating ropes that may block or damage your propeller or gearbox. When you want to go from forward to backward, do it after you let the engine speed drop to idling.

- Avoid towing your dinghy especially in rough weather, as you may lose it. It’s better to keep it secured in front of the mast. Remember that lost items are always charged to the charterer. In case you need tug help and before you accept it, agree on the price and ask for a receipt that clearly states that no further payment will be asked.

- Avoid dropping papers or napkins in the toilet bowl. It’s better to use plastic bags for the waste papers. Toilet pumps are not able to dissolve such things.

- Remember to close the main switch at the top of gas bottle when you don’t use the gas stove or when nobody is on board.

- While refilling either water or fuel tanks, make sure not to mix fuel with water or water with fuel. In both cases the situation becomes unpleasant and difficult to be repaired.

- Keep always an eye on the hour counter of your motor and make sure that you have sufficient amount of fuel in your tank. The fuel gauge is not always reliable, so check the hours that you have used the motor.

- Do not throw plastic bottles, cans or any other waste in the sea. Keep them on board and remove immediately at the first harbour.

- It is also requested not to raise any flag, other than the Greek, at the aft side of the yacht, as it is against Greek and International marine regulations.

CAUTION : If the yacht is equipped with DSC VHF, DO NOT PRESS DISTRESS SIGNAL BUTTON UNLESS IT IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY (FIRE – COLLISION – GROUNDING – SINKING).There is a penalty for the unnecessary use.

About The Author
Yannis Moraitis at http://www.seascope-sailing.com/

The same goes for buying a sailboat. And, like automobiles, no sailboat is the same, so you should know the basics (and some particulars, as well) about the overall condition of the Sunfish sailboat you have your eye on.

The first question should always be, of course, how much cash are you willing to part with? If you plan on upgrading a used Sunfish, that alone can cost from $550 to $750 or more, depending on whether you want to use it to race. Prices also vary by location and supply; there’s no “set” price for a used Sunfish sailboat.

Then, where do you find a good used boat? Some people prefer to place their own ads (either in local newspapers or on the Internet) as opposed to responding to those already published. Many people have used Sunfish sailboats in pretty good condition but just haven’t thought of placing an ad for it. Also, check out local dealers, particularly if you’re buying out of season or if the outfit isn’t a Sunfish dealer. Also, knowing that sailboats go for less in winter and fall will put you ahead of the game.

Some obvious things that people often forget to look for are: age of the boat, which can be determined by checking the rudder, gunwales, or the serial number, if you don’t know the actual age; the weight of the hull, which should be between 115 and 130 pounds, and the resistance or lack thereof – watch out for a hull that’s too flexible.

Also, check the mast step and daggerboard trunk for hairline cracks or holes, and the condition of the bailer and storage compartment. And, the cockpit rim may be hiding some damage.

Other places to look for potential deal-breakers:
Signs of moisture in ports or drains.
Nicks or dents in the blades; splits and cracks in wooden blades.
Rudder and tiller cracks, corrosion, or pitting.
Dents or bends in the mast, near the tube.
Corrosion in the gaff and boom.
Holes or bad seams in the sail.

Never let the seller think you know as much as you do, bring plenty of cash just in case, and you’ll find a good deal on a used Sunfish sailboat.

David Dunlap is the owner and founder of All About Sailboats and The Ocean Sailing Guide, two online resources for every sailing enthusiast. For sailing information and resources, including boat insurance and sailing charters, visit http://allaboutsailboats.com or http://theoceansailingguide.com

In years gone by, choosing a boat design to build was limited to what you could get your hands on through local boat yards or designers. With the Internet, the whole world plus a huge archive of older designs is now at your finger tips.

No longer do you have to spend $20 to see small plans so you could decide if it was what you truly wanted to build. These days, a few hours on the Net, and you have probably more information than you need. As a matter of fact, you could end up with information overload.

My best advice is first, decide on the basic concept. Do you want a small day sailer, ocean going mono hull, live aboard catamaran or car topper. Is your family truly interested in going boating with you, or are you just assuming? Ask yourself a lot of questions first.

My first boat was a 6ft dinghy I built while still at school. This was built out of cedar so it was really light, and I could pull it behind my bicycle on its own trailer. This was used for a number of years on the river near my home.

My last boat was a 31 ft ocean going yacht. I had this moored over 100 miles from my home. In retrospect, I got far more use and more fun from my 6 ft dinghy. This backs up my thoughts at the start. Do some serious thinking before making your choice of what to build.

Remember, all you need is some basic woodworking tools, some experience and some patience. The building of your own boat is a challenge, but if you meet it, the reward is the deep satisfaction of a self-made life afloat.

About The Author
Peter Frank – Staff writer at http://build-20-boats.info Boat building site strictly for enthusiasts, with informative articles updated regularly